A few weeks back, I found myself dining with friends in vibrant Kampong Glam two nights in a row. The first was at the cool Blu Jaz along Bali Lane where me and my drinking mates had good grog and yummy bar grub. The second was at the halal-certified The White Label located at North Bridge Road where two other pals and I enjoyed a unique Malayan French cuisine dinner.
Thankfully we booked The White Label in advance as the two-storey, French-cafe-inspired restaurant was packed when we arrived for our 7pm Saturday dinner. We were shown immediately to a table right along the entrance walkway but after we pleaded profusely for a better sited seating, the waiter kindly brought us upstairs -where almost every table was occupied–to one that was by the window for which we were extremely grateful.
The White Label specializes in incorporating Malayan flavors into classical French cuisine. For example, a fish and chips dish may have sambal sauce, while a pasta may have asam pedas (spicy fish stew) as part of its mix.
The all-day menu comprises an uncomplicated, mostly French-sounding selection of starters, soups, pastas and risottos, mains, desserts, and drinks (mocktails, teas, soft drinks, et al).
For the appetizer, we decided to try the TWL Vol-Au-Vent ($14) which uses local “Kueh Pie Tee” shells– instead of the customary baked patty puff pastry– and filled them with pulled beef, chilli Belado (sambal chilli paste), serunding (spicy shredded coconut), and sliced cherry tomatoes.
For a small item, this dish was extremely meaty and filling. Definitely not as light as the Chinese version (which uses prawns and eggs) but still intriguing nonetheless.
The dish that had me and my mates “at hello” when we first browsed the menu though was this Lobster Bisque ($14) served with garlic baguette. Rich and creamy and chockful of lobster meat, it was simply heavenly.
If you can only order just one dish for a meal at The White Label, make it this one!
Normally I would order the duck confit in a French restaurant cos, well, usually they do it best. But it was my friend who decided to go for the TWL Duck Confit ($32) and, whoa, what a good choice it was.
For starters they gave two duck legs instead of the usual one and it’s definitely a dish to be shared if you don’t have a huge appetite! Served with mashed potato, broccoli and a sesame brown sauce, the absolutely tasty and succulent duck meat would satisfy any meat lover.
The other friend opted for another signature dish–just look for the “TWL” prefix–that is the TWL Angel Hair Bouillabaisse ($20++) which is bouillabaisse-cum-Asam Pedas with scallops, mussels and tiger prawns served on angel hair pasta. If you are into seafood, this is a hearty dish indeed.
I’d so wanted to try the Smoked Lamb Rack with Sauce À La Menthe ($38) but not sure why I was feeling iffy about the price, and thus I ended up with this Spicy Prawn Linguini ($24). It was a generous dish of fresh, huge and yes spicy prawns and the pasta was okay though it did feel jelak (Malay for tired) after a while. Should have gone for something meatier instead…
All in all, it was fun trying out French cuisine with local flavors. Prices are a bit on the high side but items like the Lobster Bisque and Duck Confit was worth every cent. We were stuffed by the time we finished (or tried to) our mains, so decided to go for a walk before settling somewhere for dessert.
It end up about $50-$60 per person without drinks and dessert (complimentary water was provided), which is still relatively decent. Would definitely return to try other dishes and especially their desserts such as Ondeh Ondeh Gâteau ($9) and Banane L’Opera ($10).
The White Label is at 734 North Bridge Rd, #01-01, Singapore 198702. Tel: +65 8202 2358. Opening hours: Mon-Fri -11.30am-10pm; Sat-Sun: 10.30am-10pm.